Five restaurants the editors actually visited this week — and would visit again.
This week was Pratumnak-heavy, with the season's first run of white asparagus on at least three menus and the post-Songkran shoulder making fine-dining bookings finally accessible. Below: where we ate, in order, and what we ordered.
The white-asparagus run is on, and Cafe des Amis is doing it the right way — three preparations across the tasting menu, none of them gilded. The dining room was at perhaps 60% capacity at the 7:30 seating; by 8:30 it was full. Book the early slot if you want quiet.
Read the review →Six in the morning, the Soi Buakhao end. Two bowls of jok with raw egg and ginger, a glass of sweet milky tea, the news on the wall-mounted television in Thai. The most resident-feeling thirty minutes of the week.
Read the review →Whole grilled pla kapong (sea bass), prawns the size of a fist, papaya salad medium-spicy. The bay was at its calmest after a morning rain. We over-ordered and were glad of it.
Read the review →Sunset at the corner table. The kitchen sent out a small amuse without prompting — a sign the room remembers regulars and is trying. The Thai fine-dining set was, if anything, sharper than three months ago.
Read the review →Three glasses, no food, an hour at the bar end of the room. Bruno's wine program continues to be one of the city's quietest pleasures — small pours, fair markups, the sommelier curious about what you've eaten elsewhere this week.
Read the review →That was the week.
— The Editors